Parrotles eating carrots

Fruits and Vegetables for Parrotlets

Fresh food such as fruits and vegetables is, alongside seed mixtures, an important component of a balanced diet for parrotlets and, of course, all other parrots. The quantity and type of fruits and vegetables fed naturally depend on the parrot species. Ideally, more vegetables than fruits should be offered, as fruits contain a lot of fructose, which can promote the formation of yeast in the crop.

Other parrot species have different requirements, for example, lories primarily feed on nectar but also soft fruit, and lovebirds need a lot of vegetables and fruit every day.

Making Fruits and Vegetables More Appetizing

Since not all parrots enjoy eating fruits and vegetables from the start, there are various ways to make fresh food more appealing:

Offer Fruits and Vegetables in Different Forms

  • Cut into small pieces or rings
  • Grated
  • Steamed
  • Hung on metal skewers*
  • Puréed
  • Mixed into seed food
  • Garnished with seeds
  • Dried (for store-bought products, ensure no additives or sulfur have been used)

*Amazon Affiliate Links – As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

A More Drastic Approach

In the morning, offer only fruits/vegetables instead of seed food. Since parrots need to eat in the morning to get going, they will eat whatever is available—meaning the fruits and vegetables. Around midday, they can then receive their usual seed mix.

Our Own Observations

Through a lot of trial and error, we discovered that our two parrotlets particularly enjoy kiwi, but also cucumber, carrot, and sometimes apple and pear. Other parrotlets love raspberries, strawberries, broccoli, and fennel (raw or steamed). The key is to offer a wide variety, be patient, and hope that something eventually matches their tiny beaks’ taste 🙂

By the way, we always feed only one type of vegetable or fruit per day. Otherwise, the less popular varieties are simply ignored (see picture).

I also tried to “trick” the little birds by cutting various fruits and vegetables into tiny cubes and mixing them well. The result? They looked at me questioningly—almost reproachfully—and picked out only the kiwi cubes to eat. But it was worth a try! Interestingly, the carrot cubes, which were ignored next to the beloved kiwi pieces, were eagerly devoured the next day when I offered them separately and in slices. That’s just parrotlet logic 😉

We have also offered peach, strawberry, watermelon, honeydew melon, mango, persimmon, banana, and pomegranate seeds individually on multiple occasions, but none of these fruits were even given a glance—though luckily, that was the case with the pomegranate! 😉

I really want to try offering dragon fruit because I’m curious whether the two will give it a chance due to the tiny black seeds that resemble kiwi seeds. However, I haven’t been able to find one yet. If anyone has a tip on where to get one, feel free to leave a comment! 🙂

Fruit for Parrotlets and Other Birds

For all types of fruit: Please feed only in small amounts due to the high fructose content, and whenever possible, choose organic fruit! Always wash all fruits thoroughly before feeding, and peel exotic fruits to remove pesticides, wax, or fungicides.

  • Apple (without seeds! Organic apples can be given with the peel; sweet and mealy varieties are preferred)
  • Apricot (ripe fruit without the pit; perishable, so offer only for a few hours)
  • Banana (peeled)
  • Cherries (fruit without the pit!)
  • Coconut (fresh flesh)
  • Fig (only ripe fruits; perishable, so remove after 3-4 hours)
  • Grapes (ripe fruit, halved)
  • Kiwi (fruit without the peel; the seeds are especially popular)
  • Lychee (peeled and without the pit)
  • Mandarin (segments without skin and seeds; only occasionally and in small amounts)
  • Mango (flesh without peel and pit)
  • Melon (flesh and seeds; feed only in small amounts)
  • Mirabelle plum (fruit without the pit)
  • Nectarine (fruit without the pit)
  • Orange (segments without skin; only occasionally and in small amounts)
  • Papaya (flesh and seeds)
  • Peach (fruit without the pit)
  • Pear (fruit only)
  • Persimmon/Sharon fruit (flesh of fully ripe fruits without the peel)
  • Pineapple (only fresh, not canned!, and without the peel)
  • Plum (ripe fruit without the pit)
  • Pomegranate (seeds—warning: it can get very messy!)
  • Pomelo (segments without skin; only occasionally and in small amounts)
  • Strawberry (has a diuretic effect, so not suitable for animals with kidney problems)

Vegetables for Parrotlets and Other Birds

For all vegetables: Wash thoroughly before feeding and peel if necessary. Some vegetables can be offered raw as well as cooked or steamed.

  • Arugula (can cause temporary diarrhea due to its high water content. Preferably feed homegrown or regionally grown summer varieties. Do not offer in winter, as it may contain high nitrate levels due to lack of warmth and light)
  • Beetroot (root, stems, and leaves; offer only in small amounts. May turn droppings red (mess warning!))
  • Brussels sprouts (steamed or cooked (without salt!); only in small amounts)
  • Carrot (root and greens (preferably organic and well-washed))
  • Cauliflower (raw or steamed (without salt!))
  • Celery (bulb, leaves, and stalks; feed rarely and in small amounts)
  • Chard (leaves and stems; contains oxalic acid, so not suitable for birds with kidney problems)
  • Chicory (leaves without the core)
  • Corn (semi-ripe cobs, sliced into rings or broken into pieces; also as unsweetened/unsalted microwave popcorn for shredding)
  • Cucumber (only feed if it is not bitter)
  • Cucurbit – only edible varieties (flesh and seeds (seeds only in small amounts as they are fatty and diuretic))
  • Endive (leaves and seed stalks; not suitable for birds with kidney problems)
  • Fennel (bulb and greens)
  • Green peas (only cooked (without salt); feed rarely and in small amounts due to high protein content)
  • Kohlrabi (bulb (raw or steamed without salt!), young leaves, and stems)
  • Lettuce (can cause temporary diarrhea due to high water content. Feed only homegrown or regionally grown summer lettuce. Do not offer in winter due to high nitrate levels)
  • Parsnip (root; feed only in very small amounts)
  • Pumpkin (see Cucurbit)
  • Radish (root, leaves, and stems; only fresh organic radishes or homegrown)
  • Sweet potato (bulb, raw or cooked (without salt))
  • Zucchini (only feed if it is not bitter)

Berries and Berry Fruits for Parrotlets and Other Birds

  • Aronia/Chokeberry (only ripe berries—warning: very messy!)
  • Barberry (only ripe berries, as the rest of the plant is toxic!)
  • Blackberry (only ripe berries, in moderation due to high sugar content—warning: very messy!)
  • Bilberry/Blueberry (only ripe berries—warning: very messy!)
  • Cranberry (ripe berries only)
  • Elderberry (only ripe black berries and flowers; the rest of the plant (leaves, bark, unripe fruit) is toxic!)
  • Firethorn (only ripe berries; due to the risk of injury from thorns, offer them individually)
  • Gooseberry (ripe berries, preferably halved; due to high sugar content, feed only in small amounts)
  • Hawthorn (ripe berries)
  • Mahonia (only the berries and only in moderation, as they are diuretic; not suitable for birds with kidney problems)
  • Mountain Ash/Rowanberry (due to high fructose content, feed only in small amounts)
  • Raspberry (only ripe berries; offer only briefly, as raspberries spoil quickly—warning: very messy!)
  • Redcurrant/Blackcurrant (ripe berries—warning: very messy!)
  • Rosehip (ripe fruits, best offered halved)
  • Sea Buckthorn (only ripe berries; due to the risk of injury from thorns, offer them individually)
parrotlet seeds with dried rowanberry
parrotlet seeds with dried rowanberry

And yes, I know that most of the “berries” listed above are not actually berries in the botanical sense (which technically includes currants, cranberries, and blueberries, as well as pumpkins and tomatoes 😉). Instead, they fall under the category of berry fruits, which generally refers to types of fruit that are soft, small, and round.

Toxic Foods for Parrotlets and Other Birds

Not everything that is harmless for humans is also safe for parrots, and vice versa. For example, rowan berries are toxic to humans, but birds can eat them without any issues and even love hollowing them out when dried.

Toxic and/or Harmful for Parrots:

  • Apple seeds (contain amygdalin, which converts to cyanide in the body)
  • Apricot kernels (contain amygdalin, which converts to cyanide in the body)
  • Asparagus (often causes digestive issues and vomiting; diuretic effect)
  • Avocado (contains the toxic substance persin)
  • Bitter almonds (contain amygdalin, which converts to cyanide in the body)
  • Cherry pits (contain cyanide)
  • Citrus fruits (should not be fed to birds with kidney problems)
  • Legumes, raw (mung beans, peas, and beans can be fed when cooked)
  • Lilac (mildly toxic; if given, only in moderation—better to choose non-toxic plants instead)
  • Peanuts (especially the shells, which are often contaminated with mold spores that can cause aspergillosis in parrots)
  • Unripe berries and berry fruits

“Human Food” That Should Never Be Given:

  • Alcohol
  • Bread
  • Butter
  • Chocolate
  • Coffee
  • Meat
  • Milk
  • Pizza
  • Processed meats (e.g., sausage)
  • Salty foods
  • Sugar
  • Sweets
  • Etc.

Controversial: Nightshade Plants

Nightshade plants contain solanine, which is mildly toxic. For this reason, I never feed my parrotlets any nightshade vegetables. Unripe fruits, green stems, and the plant itself are also slightly toxic. Some bird owners may have different opinions, but for such a small bird like a parrotlet, the risk of poisoning is simply too high.

Nightshade plants include:

  • Bell pepper
  • Chili / Hot peppers
  • Eggplant
  • Physalis (Cape gooseberry)
  • Potato
  • Tomato

Dietary Supplements?

Healthy parrotlets that receive a balanced diet—including high-quality seed mix or pellets, a variety of vegetables and fruits multiple times a week, occasional sprouted and soaked seeds (with strict hygiene), always access to grit* (is necessary for digestion), a mineral block*, and sufficient UV-B light for vitamin D production—do not need artificial supplements or vitamins. In incorrect dosages, these supplements can do more harm than good and can even be fatal if overdosed.

Of course, there are situations and life stages where supplements may be necessary (e.g., during molting, illness, breeding, or other significant stress periods). However, such supplements should only be given with great care and under the guidance of an avian veterinarian.

I hope this article helps you to find good fruits and vegetables for your parrotlets!

If you like the article feel free to share it with your friends and / or write me a nice comment.

Follow the everyday adventures of my parrotlets on Instagram: parrotlet_blog